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<title level="m" type="main">Foodways</title>
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<author>Barbara G. Shortridge</author>
<editor>David J. Wishart</editor>
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<name>Laura Weakly</name>
<name>Nicholas Swiercek</name>
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<authority>Encyclopedia of the Great Plains</authority>
<publisher>University of Nebraska&#8211;Lincoln</publisher>
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<addrLine>319 Love Library</addrLine>
<addrLine>University of Nebraska&#8211;Lincoln</addrLine>
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<addrLine>cdrh@unlnotes.unl.edu</addrLine>
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<date>2009</date>
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<p>Copyright &#169; 2009 by University of Nebraska&#8211;Lincoln, all rights reserved. Redistribution or republication in any medium, except as allowed under the Fair Use provisions of U.S. copyright law, requires express written consent from the editors and advance notification of the publisher, the University of Nebraska&#8211;Lincoln.</p>
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<bibl><author n="Shortridge, Barbara G.">Barbara G. Shortridge</author>. <title level="a">"Foodways."</title> In <editor n="Wishart, David J.">David J. Wishart</editor>, ed. <title level="m">Encyclopedia of the Great Plains</title>. <pubPlace>Lincoln</pubPlace>: <publisher>University of Nebraska Press</publisher>, <date value="2004">2004</date>. <biblScope type="pages">300-301</biblScope>.</bibl>
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<div1>
<head type="main">FOODWAYS</head>

<p>"Eat beef!" is a common sign found along
roadsides and on pickup trucks throughout
the Great Plains. Sponsored by local livestock
associations, this slogan reflects the dominant
ranching economy in the western half of the
Plains. It also holds true for consumption.
Beef is by far the preferred meat from the Canadian
Prairie Provinces to South Texas. In
fact, eating this red meat provides a source of
regional identity, especially when a state or
province name is inserted, as in Nebraska or
Alberta beef. A grilled T-bone steak is the preferred
cut and preparation method for home
and restaurant consumption, but beef also is
the focus of foodways events such as chuckwagon
dinners, barbecue contests, and chili
cook-offs.</p>

<p>Male-dominated competitive cooking, perhaps
inspired by stories from cattle-drive
campsites, is a popular activity in the Great
Plains. Barbecue contests involve secret dry
rubs, marinades, and tangy, tomato-based
sauces. These are applied to a wide assortment
of beef cuts, with brisket being a popular
choice. Chili cook-offs vary in sophistication,
from a circuit where contestants collect points
to be eligible for a national competition to
simpler community social events, such as
heritage days. Known regionally as "bowl o'
red," chili is composed of meat, tomatoes,
chilies, secret ingredients, and sometimes
beans simmered together in a large pot.</p>

<p>On restaurant menus, beef in the form of
steaks, roasts, and barbecue is regularly supplemented in the Southern Plains by a specialty
known as chicken-fried steak. This is
tenderized round steak that has been dipped
in a liquid (sometimes buttermilk) and seasoned
flour, and then fried in a pan. It inevitably
is served with mashed potatoes and gravy.
Rocky Mountain oysters (also known as calf
fries or prairie oysters) are another regional
specialty. These are calf testicles that are sliced
and fried. The uninitiated may consider this a
taboo food, but insiders call it a delicacy. They
are served primarily at special events sponsored
by lodges. Bison is an alternative red
meat that is gaining in status and popularity
because of its nutritional value (low fat and
less cholesterol) and clever marketing by the
North American Bison Cooperative in New
Rockford, North Dakota. Wild game also is
popular in home cooking. Antelope and elk
are preferred on the western, mountainous
edges of the Plains and pheasant is preferred
in South Dakota.</p>

<p>People in the Great Plains are noted for
their inclination toward "meat and potatoes."
This diet reflects the European heritage of its
settlers in part, but it also provides the highcalorie
replenishment needed for the pursuit
of vigorous, outdoor labor still common in
the Plains. Traditional ethnic foods, such as
dumplings, sausages, kolaches, lefse, and lutefisk
are today pretty much reserved for holidays,
family gatherings, or public ethnic celebrations
such as Høstfest in Minot, North
Dakota, Czech Days in Tabor, South Dakota,
Svensk Hyllningsfest in Lindsborg, Kansas, or
Oktoberfest in Fredericksburg, Texas. A notable
exception to this rule is Runza, a franchise
restaurant out of Lincoln, Nebraska, that is
named after a folded pastry sandwich filled
with seasoned beef and cabbage that is found
in many ethnic cuisines (called a <hi rend="italic">bierock</hi> by
German Russians). Native American food is
presented to the public in restaurant settings
or at events such as the American Indian Exposition
in Anadarko, Oklahoma. An Indian
taco (fry bread topped with seasoned meat,
lettuce, and tomatoes) is the most popular offering.
Mexican cuisine, or Tex-Mex as some
call the Americanized version, is now by far
the most popular ethnic food in restaurants in
the Plains. Two Plains franchises&#8211;Taco John's
headquartered in Cheyenne, Wyoming, and
Taco Cabana of San Antonio, Texas&#8211;are indicators
of this trend; another is the presence
of local taco stands in almost every Southern
Plains small town.</p>

<p>Being in the middle of the nation's breadbasket,
with wheat fields to the horizon, the
northern portions of the Plains are, understandably,
home to important milling and
food processing centers. Because a triangle of
eastern North Dakota has a climate ideal for
growing premium Hard Amber durum wheat,
pasta has become a local specialty. A growerowned
manufacturing facility, the Dakota
Growers Pasta Company, was established in
Carrington in 1993.</p>

<p>Throughout the Plains, home-baked products
such as bread, buns, cakes, bars, and pies
are important. If grilling beef is the competitive
venue for men, then pie making serves the
same purpose for women. Winning a blue ribbon
at the county fair remains a coveted
award, and local cafés prominently advertise
home-baked pies on the menu board. The favorite
pies utilize local fruits in season, including
rhubarb in northern places. Chocolate,
coconut cream, lemon meringue, pecan, and
sour-cream raisin pies are standard throughout
the year.</p>

<p>Farmwives in the Plains traditionally prepared
large noon meals for threshing crews
during wheat harvest time. A significant folklore
exists regarding this activity, and it remains
a fact of life today. The extra men from
the community who helped harvest the wheat
are being replaced today by custom cutting
crews who travel the Plains with their combines
from south to north during harvest season.
These crews still must be fed quickly with
filling meals, whether it is in the field, farm
kitchen, or restaurant.</p>

<p>Although traditional home cooking has
persisted in the Plains to a greater degree than
in most other parts of the United States and
Canada, it is curious that this sparsely settled
area is also the headquarters for many franchise
restaurants. White Castle, the first of the
burger joints, was established in Wichita,
Kansas, and Sonic Drive-Ins in Shawnee, Oklahoma.
The major cafeteria chains of Luby's
and Furr's first operated in San Antonio and
Lubbock, Texas, respectively. Pizza Hut began
in Wichita, Kansas, Godfather's Pizza in Omaha,
Nebraska, Mazzio's in Tulsa, Oklahoma,
Mr. Gatti's in Kerrville, Texas, and Valentino's
in Lincoln, Nebraska. No franchise seafood
restaurants have originated in the Great Plains,
as might be expected. More surprisingly, steak
chains do not have headquarters in the Plains
either. Here the reason is different&#8211;the local
steakhouse is the place to be.</p>

<p><hi rend="italic">See also</hi> <hi rend="smallcaps">HISPANIC AMERICANS</hi>: 
<ref n="egp.ha.028">Mexican American Cuisine</ref> / <hi rend="smallcaps">INDUSTRY</hi>: 
<ref n="egp.ind.049">Pizza Hut</ref>.</p>

<closer>
<signed>Barbara G. Shortridge<lb/>
University of Kansas</signed>
</closer>
</div1>

<div1>
<bibl>Fertig, Judith M. <title level="m">Prairie Home Cooking</title>. Boston: Harvard
Common Press, 1999.</bibl> <bibl>Powers, Jo Marie, and Anita Stewart.
<title level="m">Northern Bounty: A Celebration of Canadian Cuisine</title>.
Toronto: Random House of Canada, 1995.</bibl> <bibl>Wagner, Candy,
and Sandra Marquez. <title level="m">Cooking Texas Style</title>. Austin: University
of Texas Press, 1993.</bibl>
</div1>


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